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It’s been a while since I made a DIY repair or modification post as I thought I had seen the last of the problems that can sometimes plague us. I’ve had my share of problems from annoying issues to camera failure at the worse possible moments. Yet no matter how careful and forward thinking you may be, Murphy’s Law follows us everywhere. I know this because the number of photographers who have encountered flash-related problems are more than a handful. Just check out the number of forum posts that link to my Speedlite 580EX-II Hotshoe Fix post including a new threads that I discovered this morning on Fred Miranda and also Canon Board.

It all began two nights ago when I fitted the now notorious Speedlite 580EX-II on the EOS 20D and it wouldn’t fire. My first reaction, Oh, here we go again. The hot shoe screws on the camera probably needed tightening.”  Careless me, after removing the whole metal assembly, I fiddled with the plastic micro-switch and the whole piece fell inside. There is no way to recover it and since it’s plastic I am not at all concerned about the possibility of shorting the circuits. While the idea of using something so readily available such as a paper clip sounds so inviting and practical, I’m concerned about it getting lost (again) so I looked around the house and found a hairbrush bristle made of strong plastic and it fitted perfectly as a replacement to the original item.


How about that eh, an American solution (USA made hair brush) to fix a stupid Japanese design flaw that’s caused by the carelessness of a Chinese owner? I say stupid because there has got to be a better way to design a micro switch that isn’t a piece of unsecured 0.5 cm plastic. Incidentally, professional SLR bodies such as the EOS 5d and 1 series do not have this switch as they don’t come with a pop-up flash. This micro-switch tells the camera if an external flash is being used so that the pop-up flash isn’t activated either automatically or intentionally.


I have done a number of tests while I was looking at fixing this. In the camera’s confused state (should the micro-switch trigger is missing like mine), pressing the pop-up flash button while an external flash is being used, the camera attempts to pop the onboard flash up but after 3 failed clicks on the actuator, you’ll see ERR 05 on the LCD. This is designed to prevent damage to the mechanism (the person behind this logic was smarter than the one  responsible for the 0.5 cm plastic idea)

So here we have one of the freshly snipped bristle (my wife has not noticed her brush’s newly acquired defect and she doesn’t have to either). Note that it should be precisely 0.5 cm and no longer. Not even a wee bit longer as I discovered that it didn’t work so I had to have it filed down to the exact length. According to Conrad’s article, 0.4 cm worked too. ** To avoid any confusion as a reader pointed out, 0.5 cm is how long the bristle needs to be cut, not the thickness of it.


Note the stub that appears through the metal bracket. This picture was taken before I filed it shorter. In my tests, this is what I noticed. If this micro-switch trigger or stub goes missing, power to the hot shoe contacts is cut off. ie the Speedlites do not fire at all. I tried the 580EX and 580EXII and they consistently failed to fire. I think in most cases users may have a stuck stub in which case the pop-up flash would not pop because camera thinking an external flash is present.


Now, these four screws tighten the entire hot shoe and hold the flash in place. Over time, they work themselves loose and you’ll notice the bracket has a tendency to wobble. Of course, you don’t normally see the screws as they’re covered by a metal shim (picture below). You can refer to Conrad’s article on how to get the shim off.



If you have a Canon EOS 300D, 350D, 400D … 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D and future  four, three and two digits models, this post applies to you although I sincerely hope you never have to fix yours this way. There is a saying that creativity is born out of isolation and where I live, I’m fairly isolated from where I might get this DIY mess fixed. However, I would be happy to hear from non Canon owners to post their finding as to whether their camera’s hotshoe has the same brilliant design.

Trivia: The Goody hair brush has (yes I counted) 60 bristles. Each bristle is good for two fixes so one brush (quite possibly an obsolete model too) gives you a solution for 120 micro-switch replacement. Hahaha—keep your woman’s hair brush away from me—when I run out of spares, I might have to go look elsewhere! 🙂

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Canon Speedlite 580EX-II Hotshoe DIY Fix

The Road to Victory Begins With a Clean Sensor | SLR Focus Screen and Sensor Cleaning | Cleaning the EOS 5D MK II Viewfinder | Canon Hotshoe Micro-Switch Fix | Canon EF 70-200MM f/2.8 Rattle Fix | Canon Speedlite 580EX-II Flash Custom Function (PDF)

Please read Comment 23 and understand the risks before you attempt this DIY Fix. Also, if this is your first time, it helps to make a mental note of the order in which the items are taken apart.

I hate it when manufacturers roll out products that not only fall short of their promise but are evidently insufficiently tested. When Canon released the Speedlite 580EX II, they made it more dust and water resistant, 20% shorter recycling time and improved communication reliability through direct contacts. I’ve owned previous models of Canon flashes namely 550EX and the original 580EX none of them had given me any communication problems over the years of hard use (there may be exceptions). As far as I’m concerned, communication has always been very reliable—it was not broken and therefore needed absolutely NO fixing. So, if you’ve landed on this page because your 580EX II is misbehaving: gross overexposure,  ETTL switches to TTL and occasionally not firing, welcome to my club—membership is free 🙂 It may be nothing more than just loose contacts that can be fixed quite easily.

The 580EX II has a heavy duty mounting foot and features a quick release locking mechanism. Unfortunately this new design comes with a caveat as more and more user have discovered.
There are three quartet of screws to remove in this DIY fix. Start by removing the first set to second quartet of screws and a wiring connector to remove.
This set of screws simply secure the cover that protects the circuit board from exposed. Remove these screws to uncover the last quartet of screws that tighten the metal foot.
I recommend disconnecting the cable assembly to make the job of servicing the foot much more convenient. The connector only goes in one way so it’s impossible to get it wrong.
Once these screws come off, the metal foot assembly wiggles and you’ll see the quick-release mechanism and the locking mechanism. Pay attention to the quick-release lock button inside which sits a tiny spring that can easily fall out although it’s not difficult to re-assemble.
In the event this bit falls out and I know this has happened to some of you, the part fits right back to the moulding (left). If you cannot get it right the first time, keep trying .. it can only fit in a certain way and you cannot get it wrong. (the next image may help)
Looking at the spring ensemble from another perspective, shown here is the right way the piece fits into the moulding. Use the direction of the spring as a guide and you’ll be OK.
Pay attention to this particular spring and make a note of you’re going to put them back in the event it comes off. To avoid this, I strongly suggest you hold this part down and lift the top part away when you disconnect the wires so both springs don’t go bunny hopping.
Check that these two spring loaded screws are tight. If they require tightening, make sure you don’t over torque them.
Once this cover comes off, you’ll see a 3rd quartet of screws to check and tighten where necessary (these tighten the metal foot).

To sum it up, I’m grateful problems like this can easily be fixed at home (the only tools required are tiny Philips PH000 (+) screw driver and patience). About the only other annoyance with this flash is the completely unintuitive Master to Slave switch or lack-thereof! I use my Speedlites with studio umbrellas too so I have to put up with the silliness of this absent-minded ‘feature’ when working in slave mode.

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